Gadget
Ccbysa
This adapts 35mm film for use in 120 medium format cameras. By using this, you get full exposure of the film strip, sprocket holes and all.

Description

UPDATES 10/23/14 - Added matching takeup spool http://www.youmagine.com/designs/120-takeup-spool-for-35mm-film
10/7/14 - Added a combined STL
7/6/14 - I've added a PDF Read Me guide to using the adapter
6/16/14 - updated files to improve fit and reduce friction. May be loose on some commercial canisters but will now fit CineStill film and possibly Kalt. Print using 50% infill.

Tested and working. This adapts 35mm film canisters to work as a 120 format spool, and allows shooting 35mm film in any 120 medium format film camera. The 35mm film is centered on the 120 spool. Using this adapter allows using films that are not available in 120 format, and the entire 35mm film is exposed, resulting in images out to the edges, sprocket holes and all, resulting in a unique effect.

See http://www.youmagine.com/designs/120-takeup-spool-for-35mm-film for the matching takeup spool.

Do not force adapters on. Make sure the splines are aligned and if tight, trim/sand or wiggle on carefully. The splines may need to be trimmed to fit Kalt bulk loading canisters and some others.

The hole for viewing the film number (usually a red window) on the camera must be taped over with black gaffer's tape or some suitable opaque tape to avoid back side exposure of the film. You will need to wind blindly about 1-1/2 turns at the beginning and taper down to 1-1/4 turn at the end. Most medium format cameras have no rewind, so you will need to unload the film in a darkroom or changing bag and manually rewind the 35mm film back into its canister. When processing, specify "process only" and "do not cut" and cut the film yourself.

These were designed for the Flyer 6x6 camera developed as a result of the Pinhole Printed Kickstarter project (pinholeprinted.com) but can be used in any 120 medium format camera.

The combined STL is printed as is. If using the individual parts, the bottom STL part is printed as is and the top STL part must first be rotated 180 degrees about X or Y to sit flat on the bed for printing. Now recommending 50% infill due to the small cross-section of the splines.

If you do not have a 3D printer or have it tied up with other things, check at http://www.pinholeprinted.com/order/35mm-film-to-120-spool-adapter/ for alternatives.

This is CC by SA 3.0 - this means anyone can freely print or even sell the adapters - but you must provide attribution if you do so. You can print a tag with this information:
35mm Film on 120 Spool by coconnor55Published May 2, 2014https://www.youmagine.com/designs/35mm-film-on-120-spoolCreative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike 

and display it if demonstrating your printer capabilities or distribute it with any copies you sell.
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Supershawn9 months ago
Ok how do I get one of these? I do not own a 3d printer...
Mini screen shot 2013 09 30 at 16.40.44a.medium
coconnor559 months ago
You can get them from me at pinholeprinted.com/order if you don't have a 3d printer yet.
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edtse889 months ago
Hey! Thanks for the design, I printed one and here are the results:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152065105532531.1073741834.505987530&type=1&l=1e1f2ea351

The adapter had some problems in my camera though (Minolta Autocord). I think the adapter fit too tightly and the roll jammed after a few shots and I had to open the back to wind it. I'm going to try to file the adapter down a bit and see if it helps.

Mini screen shot 2013 09 30 at 16.40.44a.medium
coconnor559 months ago
edtse88, could it be that your Minolta Autocord is a 620 film model? That could account for the jamming. If not, please let me know what you find out and I'll redesign it - or create a new version for 620 film.
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edtse889 months ago
Nope, its 120. It's definitely a tightness, I know that if I force it, it will move but obviously that's not ideal. I'll try to see where the resistance is and let you know. What camera did you use it on?

Also, on my Minolta there is no way to unwind the film without removing the back in the dark. My rollei on the other hand has a rewind knob which makes things easier. I guess this is a problem that you will have to deal with depending on the camera.

Mini screen shot 2013 09 30 at 16.40.44a.medium
coconnor559 months ago
I measured 120 spools with a caliper but maybe I'll take 1/2mm off each end. I'll send it to you in a week to try out.  You're correct that some 120 cameras can't rewind 35mm and have to be opened in a darkroom.  I'm going to have to put an extra knob on my Flyer to enable rewinding.
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edtse889 months ago
Thanks! But I don't think that's the problem, it might just be my autocord. I tried winding it on my rolleiflex and it worked fine. On the autocord, I think the tightness was in the diameter of the holes. Also, I have an adapter on my rollei for 35 mm but it doesn't expose the sprocket holes but if I use parts of it, it will allow rewinding of the film in camera. Unfortunately this mechanism wouldn't work in other cameras.

I made a post here with more info: http://www.edtse.com/35mm-to-120-film-adapter/

Mini screen shot 2013 09 30 at 16.40.44a.medium
coconnor559 months ago
Great blog! I think I know what the problem is now on friction and will do a new version and send you the files. As for the holes, they might be smaller if the first layer is really squashed down in printing.
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edtse889 months ago
Hmm yeah I'll try to file down some parts of the one I have now. But again, it seems to work in some cameras better than others so just a disclaimer to those who want to try this out. Don't force the winder if it's stiff!

And I don't update my blog enough haha but I thought this was worth posting!
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christian.bermudezrodriguez8 months ago
Hi very good contribution, I would like to print it but ask me the measurements of each piece, could say them
thanks
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3d-drucker-boy3 months ago
What measurements do you mean, I think they are all known

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