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src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js"> </script> </div> </div><!-- #header --> <div id="container"> <div id="content"> <div id="post-1155" class="hentry p1 post publish author-admin category-cyanotype tag-absorbent-material tag-black-and-white-photography tag-classic-cyanotype tag-cyanotype-process tag-cyanotypes tag-cyanotypes-on-fabric tag-ferric-ammonium-citrate tag-gary-fabbri tag-health-and-safety tag-malin-fabbri tag-potassium-ferricyanide tag-safety-instructions tag-simple-solutions tag-sir-john-herschel y2010 m02 d20 h14"> <h1 class="entry-title">Cyanotype – the classic process</h1> <div class="entry-content"> <p class="byline">Writer / Malin Fabbri and Gary Fabbri<br />Photography / Malin Fabbri</p> <h5>Cyanotype process – a modified extract from the book <a href="/wp/book/processes/cyanotype/blueprint-to-cyanotypes"><strong><em>Blueprint to cyanotypes</em></strong></a> describing the classic or traditional cyanotype process.</h5> <p><strong>Always be careful when handling chemicals. Read the <a href="/wp/processes/health-and-safety">health and safety</a> instructions.</strong></p> <hr /> <p><img src="/articles/images_articles/mf_proc_print_hang_dry.jpg" alt="Hang a cyanotype to dry" height="218" width="200" class="floatright" />Unlike photographs set in silver, like in black and white photography, cyanotypes are using a solution of iron compounds.</p> <p>The photograph can be taken with a camera, like a digital camera, and the resulting photo turned into a negative that can be used to make a cyanotype. </p> <p>The basic cyanotype recipe has not changed very much since Sir John Herschel introduced it in 1842. However, some advances have been made by Mike Ware in what is referred to as the <a href="/wp/processes/cyanotype/new-cyanotype-process">New cyanotype process</a>. Ware’s cyanotype formula has less bleed, shorter exposure times and a longer density range than Herschel’s, but it is also slightly more complicated to mix and uses more toxic chemicals.</p> <h2>The cyanotype process at a glance</h2> <p>The cyanotype process is simple. It can be done easily in a few steps:</p> <p><strong>Mixing chemicals<br /> </strong>The cyanotype is made up of two simple solutions.</p> <ul> <li>Potassium ferricyanide and Ferric ammonium citrate (green) are mixed with water separately.</li> <li>The two solutions are then blended together in equal parts.</li> </ul> <p><strong>Preparing the canvas</strong></p> <ul> <li>Paper, card, textiles or any other naturally absorbent material is coated with the solution and dried in the dark.</li> </ul> <p><strong>Printing the cyanotype</strong></p> <ul> <li>Objects or negatives are placed on the material to make a print. The cyanotype is printed using UV light, such as the sun, a light box or a UV lamp.</li> </ul> <p><strong>Processing and drying</strong></p> <ul> <li>After exposure the material is processed by simply rinsing it in water. A white print emerges on a blue background.</li> <li>The final print is dried and admired.</li> </ul> <h2>What you need</h2> <p>Before you start, get all the items you need together.</p> <ul> <li>25 grams of Ferric ammonium citrate (green)</li> <li>10 grams of Potassium ferricyanide</li> <li>Water (distilled if possible)</li> <li>Scale or measuring spoons</li> <li>Measuring jug</li> <li>3 glass containers for mixing ingredients</li> <li>Plastic spoons</li> <li>Face mask (DIY style)</li> <li>Goggles</li> <li>Rubber gloves</li> <li>Apron or old shirt</li> <li>Newspaper to cover work surface</li> <li>Cleaning cloth</li> <li>Brushes or coating rod</li> <li>Clothes pegs (plastic)</li> <li>Washing line or rope (plastic)</li> <li>Art paper or fabric for coating</li> <li>Glass or a contact print frame</li> <li>Sunshine or a UV light source</li> </ul> <h4>Mixing chemicals</h4> <p>Cyanotype is a very simple process. It involves treating a surface with iron salts that reacts to UV light. <strong>Wear a face mask and rubber gloves when working with chemicals</strong>. In this case, Ammonium ferric citrate and Potassium ferricyanide. Two separate solutions are made and then equal quantities of each solution is mixed together in a third container.</p> <h2>The formula</h2> <p>This recipe makes approximately 50 8×10 inch prints. <strong>The cyanotype is made up of two simple solutions</strong>:</p> <ul> <li>Solution A: 25 grams Ferric ammonium citrate (green) and 100 ml. water.</li> <li>Solution B: 10 grams Potassium ferricyanide and 100 ml. water.</li> </ul> <p class="clearfix"><span class="bigbold">1</span><img src="/articles/images_articles/mf_proc_mixing_chemicals2.jpg" alt="Mixing cyanotype chemicals" height="284" width="200" class="floatright" /><strong>Mixing the chemicals<br /> </strong>Dissolve the chemicals in water to make two separate solutions. <strong>Add Ammonium ferric citrate to water into one container and Potassium ferricyanide to water in another</strong>. Stir with a plastic spoon until the chemicals dissolve. <strong>Mix equal quantities of each solution together in a third container</strong>. Unused solutions can be stored separately in brown bottles away from light, but will not last very long once they have been mixed. Dispose of any unused chemicals in a sensible and environmentally friendly way!<br /> <br /> <strong>Your work area</strong><br /> Your floors, carpets, walls, work surfaces, clothes and skin can be stained by the chemicals. <strong>Cover all possible areas</strong>, use rubber gloves and an apron or an old shirt to work in. If you have the space, choose an area where you can spread out. Ordinary light bulbs or tungsten light is safe to use, but <strong>UV light will affect your prints</strong>. Some fluorescent lighting may also affect your prints.</p> <p class="clearfix"><span class="bigbold">2</span><strong><img src="/articles/images_articles/mf_proc_coating_w_brush.jpg" alt="Coating cyanotype paper" height="140" width="200" class="floatright" />Preparing the canvas<br /> </strong>Using a brush, <strong>simply paint the chemicals onto the material</strong>. Paper, card, textiles or any natural material can be used to print on. Decide how big your print is going to be, and cut your material to size. Make sure your working area is dimly lit, or lit with a low-level tungsten bulb. Once the material is coated, leave it to dry in the dark.</p> <p class="clearfix"><span class="bigbold">3</span><strong><img src="/articles/images_articles/mf_proc_exposing_print.jpg" alt="Exposing a digital negative on cyanotype" height="140" width="200" class="floatright" />Printing the cyanotype</strong><br /> <strong>Print a cyanotype by placing your negative (to reproduce a photograph) or object (to make a photogram) in contact with your coated paper or fabric</strong>. Sandwich it with a piece of glass. Expose the sandwich to UV light. Natural sunlight is the traditional light source, but UV lamps can also be used. A photogram can also be made by placing items on the surface. Plants, decorative items or other objects can be used to create silhouettes or interesting shapes. Exposure times can vary from a few minutes to several hours, depending on how strong your lightsource is or the season where you are printing.</p> <p class="clearfix"><span class="bigbold">4</span><strong>Processing and drying</strong><br /> When the print has been exposed, <strong>process your print by rinsing it in cold water</strong>. The wash also removes any unexposed chemicals. Wash for at least 5 minutes, until all chemicals are removed and the water runs clear. Oxidation is also hastened this way – bringing out the blue color. The final print can now be hung to dry and be admired.</p> <p>Good luck<span class="ap_icon">!</span></p> <div class="colsub"> <p class="breadcrumb">Get the book</p> </div> <div class="thumbnail"> <p><a href="/wp/processes/cyanotype/blueprint-to-cyanotypes"><img class="floatleft" src="/books/images/mf_blueprint_cyanotype-s.jpg" height="150" width="116" alt="Beginners guide to cyanotypes" /></a><a href="/wp/processes/cyanotype/blueprint-to-cyanotypes"><strong>Blueprint to cyanotypes – Exploring a historical alternative photographic process</strong></a><br /> by Malin Fabbri and Gary Fabbri<br /> A well illustrated step-by-step guide to cyanotypes.<br /> <br /> A lot more information on the process, chemicals, coating, exposure, printing, making negatives, washing and troubleshooting is available in this book.<br /> <br /> <strong>Strongly recommended for beginners</strong></p> </div> <p><br class="clearboth"></p> <div class="sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled"><div class="robots-nocontent 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href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/category/processes/cyanotype" rel="category tag">Cyanotypes</a> and tagged <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/tag/absorbent-material" rel="nofollow tag">absorbent material</a>, <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/tag/black-and-white-photography" rel="nofollow tag">black and white photography</a>, <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/tag/classic-cyanotype" rel="nofollow tag">classic cyanotype</a>, <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/tag/cyanotype-process" rel="nofollow tag">cyanotype process</a>, <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/tag/cyanotypes" rel="nofollow tag">cyanotypes</a>, <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/tag/cyanotypes-on-fabric" rel="nofollow tag">cyanotypes on fabric</a>, <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/tag/ferric-ammonium-citrate" rel="nofollow tag">ferric ammonium citrate</a>, <a 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Follow comments with the <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process/feed" title="Comments RSS to Cyanotype – the classic process" rel="alternate" type="application/rss+xml">RSS feed</a> for this post. <a class="comment-link" href="#respond" title="Post a comment">Post a comment</a> or leave a trackback: <a class="trackback-link" href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process/trackback" title="Trackback URL for your post" rel="trackback">Trackback URL</a>. </div> </div><!-- .post --> <!--google ad end of article begins--> <br /> <script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script> <!-- AP end of article --> <ins class="adsbygoogle" style="display:inline-block;width:468px;height:60px" data-ad-client="ca-pub-4679457003537677" data-ad-slot="7321821800"></ins> <script> (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script> <!--google ad end of article ends--> <div id="comments"> <div id="comments-list" class="comments"> <h3><span>49</span> Comments</h3> <ol> <li id="comment-676" class="comment c0 c-y2010 c-m06 c-d23 c-h20 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/1c04667db17500fea44ecf03eae33ff5?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F1.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Pete</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted June 23, 2010 at 7:12 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-676" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I have been having problems the entire print is washed away during th wash process. I have tried various papers from the recommended paper list to no avail. I am wondering if there is something in the water that is bleaching the print. Our water is pretty tasty and has no strong chlorine smell. </p> <p>Any Ideas?<br /> Thanks,<br /> Pete.</p> </li> <li id="comment-677" class="comment c1 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2010 c-m06 c-d24 c-h10"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted June 24, 2010 at 9:17 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-677" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@Pete<br /> I’m assuming you can see the print when you have exposed it?<br /> I would try some problem elimination. First get a 100% cotton material, wash it, and then try printing on it. If that works, you know it’s the wrong paper you are using.<br /> Second I would try using distilled water. If that works, you know it’s the water you are using.<br /> Let us know how it works out!</p> </li> <li id="comment-796" class="comment c2 c-y2010 c-m09 c-d18 c-h04 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/cee97afe58760728899b61ea2b2bc1d9?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://www.judygarfin.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>Judy Garin</a></span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted September 18, 2010 at 3:14 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-796" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I would like to know if you hood or directed high ventilation to do cyanotype and if you need red light for prep or could you yellow light.</p> <p>Thanks</p> </li> <li id="comment-800" class="comment c3 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2010 c-m09 c-d20 c-h21"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted September 20, 2010 at 8:46 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-800" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@Judy Garin<br /> To coat cyanotypes, or work with the chemicals, no extra ventilation is needed, though it’s always good to have sufficient ventilation for other reasons! You don’t need red light to prep either, a dimmed room light is fine. Just be careful with using tungsten light, or daylight. Good luck!</p> </li> <li id="comment-916" class="comment c4 c-y2010 c-m11 c-d02 c-h19 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/e6125029958b594a4cd98f9a28afe2fb?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">kat</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted November 2, 2010 at 6:52 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-916" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>what types of photos works best w/ cyanotypes?</p> </li> <li id="comment-922" class="comment c5 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2010 c-m11 c-d05 c-h16"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted November 5, 2010 at 3:13 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-922" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>What type of photographs that works best with cyanotypes depends a little on what you are after. You can print a very contrasty negative and get good effects, though cyanotypes are also capable of a wide range of mid tones.<br /> As far as the motif goes, I think architecture and symmetry works really well in cyanotype. If you like toning them sepia, then portraits and landscapes are working well too, but it’s very subjective, and depends on what you like.</p> </li> <li id="comment-948" class="comment c6 c-y2010 c-m11 c-d19 c-h11 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/cc783018ab220fa093114f2cfba9b52d?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Karen</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted November 19, 2010 at 10:46 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-948" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I, like Pete above have had problems developing the print on<br /> ready prepared cyanotype paper.<br /> The image is there and then when rinsed, it disappears!<br /> How do you fix it, please.<br /> I am using a pack of ‘sunography’ paper</p> </li> <li id="comment-949" class="comment c7 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2010 c-m11 c-d19 c-h11"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted November 19, 2010 at 10:49 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-949" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@Karen<br /> How long did you expose the image for? Was there a clear print (green or yellow) before you started rinsing it?</p> </li> <li id="comment-955" class="comment c8 c-y2010 c-m11 c-d23 c-h20 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/cc783018ab220fa093114f2cfba9b52d?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Karen</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted November 23, 2010 at 7:37 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-955" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>hi,</p> <p>I tried it various times, some for 30mins ( cloudy day) some for less time.<br /> The impression before rinsing was a pale white with bluish surround</p> </li> <li id="comment-957" class="comment c9 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2010 c-m11 c-d24 c-h18"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted November 24, 2010 at 5:15 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-957" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@ Karen. More questions: Which material did you try printing on, and did you rinse in tap water?</p> </li> <li id="comment-958" class="comment c10 c-y2010 c-m11 c-d24 c-h19 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/cc783018ab220fa093114f2cfba9b52d?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Karen</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted November 24, 2010 at 6:42 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-958" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I used the ‘sunography’ paper product sold in packets of 6 sheets specifically for this process.<br /> I rinsed the paper with tap water. I also even tried using some peroxide solution as I saw this on the internet<br /> It is being sold everywhere at the moment eg.<br /> <a href="http://www.vandashop.com/shopimages/products/normal/Sunography.gift" rel="nofollow">http://www.vandashop.com/shopimages/products/normal/Sunography.gift</a>.</p> <p>any help gratefully received</p> </li> <li id="comment-976" class="comment c11 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2010 c-m12 c-d01 c-h11"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted December 1, 2010 at 10:36 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-976" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>The things to check when your print disappear:<br /> The material: is it natural (if you are using pre coated paper this SHOULD be fine). If you are printing on cloth, make sure it’s not any synthetics in it, also wash it beforehand to remove any starch.<br /> If you are using paper, it may be sized. To remove any sizing, use a white vinegar soak.<br /> The coating: Make sure there is no white light, sunlight or tungsten lights that may affect your print.<br /> The exposure: Make sure it’s long enough. As a test, try exposing for an hour or so, and see if the same thing happens.<br /> The wash: Is your water alkaline? Can you try rinsing somewhere else to compare the result?<br /> I hope this works!</p> </li> <li id="comment-1204" class="comment c12 c-y2010 c-m12 c-d30 c-h14 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/fb75807e6443cdb041b323ec8f59cf91?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F1.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Christer Törnkvist</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted December 30, 2010 at 1:25 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-1204" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>The book is very good to start up with cyanotype. I’ve used it a lot, actually it’s my 1st book in this topic.</p> </li> <li id="comment-1920" class="comment c13 c-y2011 c-m02 c-d22 c-h14"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/87c258817481d1ce8609635bc68a72c7?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://ollymillett.tumblr.com/' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>Oliver</a></span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted February 22, 2011 at 1:39 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-1920" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I have brought all the things needed to make a cyanotype and i will make a start on it next week. One question, do you think it would be pssible to make a cyanotyp by enlarging onto the sensitized paper as if it was normal photosensitive paper?</p> </li> <li id="comment-1927" class="comment c14 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2011 c-m02 c-d23 c-h14 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted February 23, 2011 at 1:35 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-1927" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@ Oliver:<br /> I have not tried this, the process needs UV light. I doubt it will work, but please try and let us all know!</p> </li> <li id="comment-2084" class="comment c15 c-y2011 c-m04 c-d25 c-h19"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/e96c3f20549e642f15906ba94b9f3a7a?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://ceastmanphotos.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>carol eastman</a></span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted April 25, 2011 at 6:34 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2084" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I really like the cyanotype print blue color that appears after about 5′ of washing (after exposure). For me, it is much richer than the dark blue that comes when the print dries. Is there any way to get this softer, lighter blue print as a final picture? Thanks</p> </li> <li id="comment-2085" class="comment c16 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2011 c-m04 c-d25 c-h23 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted April 25, 2011 at 10:02 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2085" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@ carol<br /> I suppose you can just underexpose the print and it will be lighter.</p> </li> <li id="comment-2108" class="comment c17 c-y2011 c-m05 c-d05 c-h00"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/ee21a2984dbbe5d6b59018a00bd386c9?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Shayne</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted May 4, 2011 at 11:04 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2108" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I’ve been making cyanotypes for a few months now, and I seem to have a re-occuring problem. When I look at my finshed prints there is purple in places it should be white. My instructor said it was from my canvas not being dry, but we both made sure it was 100% dry before exposing it. What could it be then?</p> </li> <li id="comment-2109" class="comment c18 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2011 c-m05 c-d05 c-h12 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted May 5, 2011 at 11:37 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2109" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@Shayne<br /> Which exposure time do you have?</p> </li> <li id="comment-2112" class="comment c19 c-y2011 c-m05 c-d06 c-h04"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/ee21a2984dbbe5d6b59018a00bd386c9?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Shayne</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted May 6, 2011 at 3:51 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2112" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I use a negative produced off of photo shop, printed on canvas and I left it outside for about 35-40 mins. Most of it look normal except for one area that just a vivid puple</p> </li> <li id="comment-2249" class="comment c20 c-y2011 c-m07 c-d01 c-h22 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/362c4f8aec4c83e6c5ebf7b54978f939?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F1.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Gene</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted July 1, 2011 at 9:27 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2249" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Hello all,<br /> do cyanotypes have to be strictly done with negatives for best effect or are there other ways to get a larger print,<br /> I thought maybe placing a transparent print instead of a neg?<br /> And if so, how would i go about finding a method/service that does this.<br /> Any info appreciated.</p> </li> <li id="comment-2327" class="comment c21 c-y2011 c-m07 c-d24 c-h01"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/fa77ecc088a7e79ee759416fd0aa2e5f?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F1.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Tommy</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted July 24, 2011 at 12:22 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2327" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>How long can you wait to expose your paper after you have allowed the chemistry to dry? Some of my prepared papers ( I’m coating 100% cotton paper ) are turning green overnight. What is the ideal amount of time between coating and exposing?</p> </li> <li id="comment-2331" class="comment c22 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2011 c-m07 c-d26 c-h22 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted July 26, 2011 at 9:41 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2331" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@Tommy<br /> Most literature says you should expose the day after coating, or as soon as it’s dry enough. I am however doing some experiments on how long the coated paper will last. I keep it in a dark dry place and have so far used 5 year old paper with success. So, don’t feel too stressed about using the paper up right away! <img src="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":-)" class="wp-smiley" /></p> </li> <li id="comment-2340" class="comment c23 c-y2011 c-m08 c-d03 c-h14"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/c339b0f9a0f507b0bf428e072b1cd7aa?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Brandy</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted August 3, 2011 at 1:53 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2340" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I just used this yesterday in a daring and dangerous camp we hold every summer. (All safety precautions were upheld.) It was great. A lot of the teens thought this was their favorite experiment of the day. I never imagined it would be so easy to make sunpaper. Thanks for posting the process!</p> </li> <li id="comment-2352" class="comment c24 c-y2011 c-m08 c-d15 c-h18 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/b10554941fbc3a67ef241ea2a32da0bb?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F1.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Laura</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted August 15, 2011 at 5:52 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2352" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I am using 100% cotton and the print is just washing out. I’ve done this before but I bought the fabric pretreated. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. Help??</p> </li> <li id="comment-2605" class="comment c25 c-y2011 c-m10 c-d20 c-h23"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/e4e4510035beaec5de9f9d7debffac47?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Grace</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted October 20, 2011 at 10:18 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2605" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I use this solution but when I brush it on the colour is a lot darker and bluer than the pictures show and I can’t figure out what went wrong.</p> </li> <li id="comment-2607" class="comment c26 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2011 c-m10 c-d21 c-h15 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted October 21, 2011 at 2:59 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2607" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@Grace… the solution should be yellow or greenish when you brush it on. Blue when you have rinsed and a deeper blue after a day.</p> </li> <li id="comment-3562" class="comment c27 c-y2012 c-m03 c-d11 c-h02"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/edb1122a37887868606e0112e6184ea8?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Jessica Sarrazin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted March 11, 2012 at 1:35 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-3562" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Is it possible with a light fabric, like a silk scarf, to just dip the entire piece into a container of cyanotype solution (and maybe wring it out with gloves on?) rather than coating by brushing?</p> </li> <li id="comment-3563" class="comment c28 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2012 c-m03 c-d11 c-h13 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted March 11, 2012 at 12:53 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-3563" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Absolutley. Just make sure it’s not too creased when drying.</p> </li> <li id="comment-9530" class="comment c29 c-y2013 c-m01 c-d08 c-h05"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/c35957420b7138bcb76b00b7a09f9d4e?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Deborah</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted January 8, 2013 at 4:37 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-9530" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Where can I find or buy a contact print frame?</p> </li> <li id="comment-9541" class="comment c30 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2013 c-m01 c-d08 c-h11 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://www.AlternativePhotography.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>admin</a></span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted January 8, 2013 at 10:36 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-9541" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Deborah: Contact frame suppliers can be found here:<br /> <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/directory-of-suppliers/darkroom" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/directory-of-suppliers/darkroom</a></p> </li> <li id="comment-9668" class="comment c31 c-y2013 c-m01 c-d11 c-h22"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/bfa21e99b690853285e65e7d31ed71f1?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F1.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://www.rosebudsara.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>sararosebud</a></span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted January 11, 2013 at 9:19 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-9668" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I skimmed over all of these comments, but PEROXIDE is the ultimate blue booster. Once you put your print in some water with about a tablespoon of peroxide (don’t quote me on that) the blues just POP! Try it. It’s all an experiment anyway <img src="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" class="wp-smiley" /></p> </li> <li id="comment-10507" class="comment c32 c-y2013 c-m03 c-d20 c-h17 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/87d1b206f9345497d17929565b5a0755?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Chloe</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted March 20, 2013 at 4:41 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-10507" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Should I use only a plastic spoon?<br /> I have stainless steel spoons. Do they affect the solutions?</p> </li> <li id="comment-10548" class="comment c33 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2013 c-m03 c-d25 c-h21"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://www.AlternativePhotography.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>admin</a></span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted March 25, 2013 at 8:10 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-10548" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@Chloe: You can use any spoon. I’ve even mixed chemicals in a rusty old jar once, and it did affect the print but still printed:<br /> <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-chemicals-in-a-rusty-old-jar" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-chemicals-in-a-rusty-old-jar</a></p> </li> <li id="comment-10984" class="comment c34 c-y2013 c-m04 c-d25 c-h07 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/ecd6e7aa55cbc06fdfa88d0636053ede?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Cathy Ferguson</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted April 25, 2013 at 6:18 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-10984" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I have old cyanotypes that I made 30 years ago. They are fading. Someone told me that if I put them in the sunlight the blue would darken. Has anyone tried this? Someone else told me that if I put them in the dark they would darken – completely the opposite advice. I could experiment but I don’t want to damage the old images.<br /> Any ideas? Thanks</p> </li> <li id="comment-13234" class="comment c35 c-y2013 c-m07 c-d29 c-h19"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/cc9460445c3e54ff482ae7bb3125e594?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Zinnia</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted July 29, 2013 at 6:31 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-13234" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Where can I buy the chemicals cheapest with Free or low UK postage? I’ve looked all over the place, I’m just looking for a reliable cheap website</p> </li> <li id="comment-13250" class="comment c36 c-y2013 c-m08 c-d01 c-h01 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/ecd6e7aa55cbc06fdfa88d0636053ede?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Cathy</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted August 1, 2013 at 12:58 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-13250" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Re buying cyanotype chemicals – I bought mine from a chemical supplier – a company that supplies school and university science departments.</p> </li> <li id="comment-13313" class="comment c37 c-y2013 c-m08 c-d05 c-h19"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/25ca702131cdf34b917d2132525b484c?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Emily</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted August 5, 2013 at 6:39 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-13313" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Try <a href="http://www.artvango.co.uk" rel="nofollow">http://www.artvango.co.uk</a> kits are £7.25 and postage is basic Royal Mail.<br /> I put my Cyanotypes in the dark (a cupboard or under the stairs) for a few days to bring the colour back.</p> </li> <li id="comment-22160" class="comment c38 c-y2013 c-m09 c-d07 c-h07 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/f8029373e2d5b6357c0ce2746af0a64f?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F1.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">alice</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted September 7, 2013 at 6:20 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-22160" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Anyone know where to purchase the chemical in sg?</p> </li> <li id="comment-22172" class="comment c39 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2013 c-m09 c-d09 c-h21"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://www.AlternativePhotography.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>admin</a></span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted September 9, 2013 at 8:46 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-22172" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@alice: You can find plenty of suppliers of chemicals here, most ship anywhere:<br /> <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/directory-of-suppliers/chemicals-kits" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/directory-of-suppliers/chemicals-kits</a></p> </li> <li id="comment-22409" class="comment c40 c-y2013 c-m10 c-d07 c-h07 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/f8029373e2d5b6357c0ce2746af0a64f?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F1.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Alice Goh</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted October 7, 2013 at 6:56 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-22409" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I can only find Ammonium ferric citrate (brown), can this works for the blueprint.<br /> Or i should buy other chemical to have the blueprint effect?</p> </li> <li id="comment-22410" class="comment c41 c-y2013 c-m10 c-d07 c-h08"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/f8029373e2d5b6357c0ce2746af0a64f?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F1.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Alice Goh</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted October 7, 2013 at 7:33 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-22410" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Will the brown Ferric ammonium citrate works as well?</p> </li> <li id="comment-22477" class="comment c42 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2013 c-m10 c-d13 c-h21 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://www.AlternativePhotography.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>admin</a></span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted October 13, 2013 at 8:06 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-22477" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@Alice Goh: Yes, brown Ferric Ammonium Citrate works too. Good luck.</p> </li> <li id="comment-22627" class="comment c43 c-y2013 c-m10 c-d22 c-h22"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/c0ae9eb40d1436dad9064a63dd1e63dd?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Kanika Sircar</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted October 22, 2013 at 9:25 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-22627" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Can I coat porcelain tiles with the cyanotype chemicals and, using various masks, produce a cyanotype print on the tile?</p> </li> <li id="comment-22830" class="comment c44 c-y2013 c-m10 c-d27 c-h05 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/cc532b51743bd60b28a93f7f15ae6021?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">anisha</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted October 27, 2013 at 4:49 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-22830" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>is it necessary that the photograph which we want to print should be a negative and should be printed on a transparent sheet kind of a thing?</p> </li> <li id="comment-126897" class="comment c45 c-y2014 c-m08 c-d23 c-h22"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/61e63e6861a6c03c2f28f00bd102a4a5?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://staceylynnmayer.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>Stacey</a></span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted August 23, 2014 at 9:19 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-126897" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Hello, </p> <p>At my work, we held a children’s camp and made cyanotype t-shirts. Some of the solution fell onto the brick where it seems to be getting more potent, even though it has rained. Any suggestions on getting cyanotype solution off of brick?</p> </li> <li id="comment-131532" class="comment c46 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2014 c-m08 c-d29 c-h14 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://www.AlternativePhotography.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>admin</a></span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted August 29, 2014 at 1:39 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-131532" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>@ Stacey: that sounds like a lot of fun! Try bleaching it with bicarbonate soda, just like when bleaching a print for toning.</p> </li> <li id="comment-178577" class="comment c47 c-y2014 c-m10 c-d30 c-h18"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/27f8ec470e3b2c19794699c0e59b49ca?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">sue corr</span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted October 30, 2014 at 5:11 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-178577" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>I have a place to dry the coated emulsion on the paper in the bathroom. It is almost dark apart from the edges of the door frame just a tiny bit of light comes through…..will this be a problem…</p> </li> <li id="comment-181509" class="comment c48 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2014 c-m11 c-d03 c-h23 alt"> <div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=http%3A%2F%2F0.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D32&r=G' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://www.AlternativePhotography.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>admin</a></span></div> <div class="comment-meta">Posted November 3, 2014 at 10:21 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-181509" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div> <p>Sue Corr: Not too light and not for too long, it will start to affect the paper eventually.</p> </li> </ol> </div><!-- #comments-list .comments --> <div id="trackbacks-list" class="comments"> <h3><span>38</span> Trackbacks</h3> <ol> <li id="comment-415" class="pingback t0 c-y2010 c-m05 c-d20 c-h21 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.boerner.net/jboerner/?p=12153' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Photographic Technique of the Day… Cyanotypes - Prof. Boerner's Explorations</a> on May 20, 2010 at 8:58 pm</div> <p>[…] Alternative Photography: Cyanotype: The Classic Process… <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process</a> […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-688" class="pingback t1 c-y2010 c-m06 c-d27 c-h19"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.photo-chimp.com/2010/06/27/creating-a-cyanotype-with-nik-silver-efex/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Photo-Chimp.com - Photography in Alaska and around the World » Blog Archive » Creating a Cyanotype with Nik Silver Efex</a> on June 27, 2010 at 6:27 pm</div> <p>[…] and contrasting with the concept in yesterday’s post, the concept of cyanotype processing. Except, unlike in the link just preceding this, I refer to *digital* processing of a […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-703" class="pingback t2 c-y2010 c-m07 c-d06 c-h00 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.holgablog.com/2010/07/05/fun-in-the-sun-printing/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Fun in the Sun-Printing « Holga Blog</a> on July 5, 2010 at 11:04 pm</div> <p>[…] dichromate solution, so now you know. If you’re mildly chemical-minded, you can have a go at making it yourself. But otherwise, if you’re lazy or busy like me, then have a look round for […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-829" class="pingback t3 c-y2010 c-m09 c-d29 c-h10"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://mr.f-sur.com/wordpress/?p=43' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Portfolio » Cyanotype gallery</a> on September 29, 2010 at 9:03 am</div> <p>[…] here for information about the cyanotype process. Author: admin Categories: Alt-process Tags: Add new […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-1961" class="pingback t4 c-y2011 c-m03 c-d04 c-h15 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.contemporary-photography.org/2011/03/cyanotype-%e2%80%93-the-classic-process/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Cyanotype – the classic process | Contemporary Photography</a> on March 4, 2011 at 2:51 pm</div> <p>[…] Cyanotype – the classic process. […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-2067" class="pingback t5 c-y2011 c-m04 c-d12 c-h07"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://blueprintnewark.org/?p=85' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Identity Blueprint</a> on April 12, 2011 at 6:06 am</div> <p>[…] “How to Make a Cyanotype.” We thought this one was pretty good. We used the recipe from this site. This entry was posted in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink. ← Carrie Mae […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-2119" class="pingback t6 c-y2011 c-m05 c-d09 c-h17 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://19thcenturyphoto.wordpress.com/2011/05/09/cyanotypes/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Cyanotypes « 19thcenturyphoto</a> on May 9, 2011 at 4:17 pm</div> <p>[…] <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process</a> […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-2312" class="pingback t7 c-y2011 c-m07 c-d18 c-h09"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://documentingart.wordpress.com/2011/07/18/cyantists-turn-weeds-into-art/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Cyantists turn weeds into art « Sited… documenting art</a> on July 18, 2011 at 8:14 am</div> <p>[…] <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process</a> […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-2342" class="pingback t8 c-y2011 c-m08 c-d05 c-h20 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://onethousandwordsaminute.com/?p=702' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>The Weekly Read » One Thousand Words A Minute</a> on August 5, 2011 at 7:00 pm</div> <p>[…] an interesting sort of biography – it’s a work of art. Lauren Redniss created amazing cyanotype pieces to compliment the story, and the book is a magical […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-2922" class="pingback t9 c-y2011 c-m12 c-d08 c-h21"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.jbphotoonline.com/2011/11/01/cyanotypes/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>cyanotype | JB Photo</a> on December 8, 2011 at 8:23 pm</div> <p>[…] Cyanotypes also know as “blueprints” is a printing process that gives images a blue tone. This process was very popular with amateur photographers in the 1900′s because it was a very easy and inexpensive printing process. Today, the cyanotype process is most only used by fine-art photographers because it is not well known to the general public. There is readily available information on the web on how to produce cyanotypes. So if you have some free time and are interested in alternative processing, give cyanotypes a shot. <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process</a> […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-3216" class="pingback t10 c-y2012 c-m01 c-d22 c-h18 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://keithdotson.wordpress.com/2012/01/22/alternate-photography-processes-beautiful-blue-cyanotypes/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Alternate Photography Processes: Beautiful, Blue Cyanotypes « Keith Dotson – Ruminations on Photography, Art, and Life</a> on January 22, 2012 at 5:53 pm</div> <p>[…] to mix the chemicals and coat your own cyanotype paper (or other surface) from scratch? This alternative photography page provides a recipe and explains the process. Be safe with the […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-3539" class="pingback t11 c-y2012 c-m03 c-d08 c-h04"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://hankkaplanarchive.wordpress.com/2012/03/07/hello-from-the/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Hello from the … « hankkaplanarchive</a> on March 8, 2012 at 3:49 am</div> <p>[…] to the second title fight between Dempsey and Tunney, a year after the first, in 1927. Above is a cyanotype, from a magazine, of the action in the second […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-3630" class="pingback t12 c-y2012 c-m04 c-d02 c-h12 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://altlab2011.wordpress.com/2012/04/02/into-the-blue/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Into The Blue | ALTlab Journal</a> on April 2, 2012 at 11:23 am</div> <p>[…] was experimenting with the traditional cyanotype process. There is a lot of information on the net (<a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process</a>) but one has to experiment keeping in mind the conditions one is working in. What paper one uses […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-3815" class="pingback t13 c-y2012 c-m06 c-d15 c-h06"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.apartment50.com/blog/2012/06/15/welcome-to-the-newly-remodeled-apartment50/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Welcome to the newly remodeled apartment50!!! - Todd Matthew Clapp Photography</a> on June 15, 2012 at 5:38 am</div> <p>[…] and used all kinds of crazy chemicals to produce some amazing Gum Bichromate prints as well as Cyanotypes and Van Dykes. I probably should have upgraded the […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-3865" class="pingback t14 c-y2012 c-m06 c-d28 c-h07 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://lightbulbsandventures16.wordpress.com/2012/06/28/new-to-cyanotype/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>New to Cyanotype | Light Bulbs and Ventures</a> on June 28, 2012 at 6:27 am</div> <p>[…] or if you prefer the Actual Instuctions […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-3896" class="pingback t15 c-y2012 c-m07 c-d10 c-h02"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.mckaysphotography.com/blog/2012/07/my-first-solo-art-show-in-15-years-yikes-x2/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>My first solo art show in 15 years! Yikes! x2 :: McKay's Photography Blog</a> on July 10, 2012 at 1:55 am</div> <p>[…] the Flipside” an art show as a fundraiser for the Roc City Skatepark project using alternative processes of photography. Not just skate/bike/blade/coffee related art, but a mixture of all things that inspire me. The […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-3984" class="pingback t16 c-y2012 c-m08 c-d06 c-h23 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://darkpinesphoto.wordpress.com/2012/08/06/sault-street-scene-screens-2/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Sault Street Scene Screens 2 « Dark Pines Photo</a> on August 6, 2012 at 10:11 pm</div> <p>[…] Ste. Marie On. Street screens features a different blend of effects. The first screen resembles a cyanotype. For an example and tutorial on how to create an actual a cyanotype fabric quilt visit the […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-4189" class="pingback t17 c-y2012 c-m09 c-d28 c-h10"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://alternativephotos.wordpress.com/2012/09/28/family-interventions/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Family Interventions « alternativephotos</a> on September 28, 2012 at 9:40 am</div> <p>[…] The recipe is here at the Alternative Photography site. […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-5027" class="pingback t18 c-y2012 c-m10 c-d22 c-h01 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.christopherfecio.com/2012/10/21/cyanotypes/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Cyanotypes</a> on October 22, 2012 at 12:38 am</div> <p>[…] had made a few months before. So as not to bore you with all the technical aspects of the process, here’s a link to how the chemicals are mixed and the few steps in the process. It is one of the simplest […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-8550" class="pingback t19 c-y2012 c-m12 c-d12 c-h04"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://jennifernicholewells.com/2012/12/10/cyanotypes/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Cyanotypes | Jennifer Nichole Wells</a> on December 12, 2012 at 3:11 am</div> <p>[…] will be taking Alternative Photo this coming Spring. For our first project we’ll be making cyanotypes. Today, I took some images using mushrooms and glitter (we had to pick specific items from a list- […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-10430" class="pingback t20 c-y2013 c-m03 c-d12 c-h16 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://glasgowinnercircle.com/2013/03/12/glasgows-photographic-blueprint/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>The Inner Circle | The inside track to life in Glasgow</a> on March 12, 2013 at 3:46 pm</div> <p>[…] Cyanotypes, as the name suggests, are blue photographic prints produced using the same process which was used for engineering blueprints. […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-10614" class="pingback t21 c-y2013 c-m03 c-d30 c-h20"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://susanamortimer.wordpress.com/2013/03/30/francesca-woodman-cyanotype-photography/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Francesca Woodman & Cyanotype Photography | susanmortimer</a> on March 30, 2013 at 7:25 pm</div> <p>[…] This wonderful site has an amazing plethora of information on many photographic processes as well as much useful information on cyanotype printing methods. […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-10920" class="pingback t22 c-y2013 c-m04 c-d17 c-h01 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://teelehallmagi.wordpress.com/2013/04/16/photographycourse/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>“Don’t shoot what it looks like. Shoot what it feels like.” David Alan Harvey | Elan. Unistan. Mõtlen. Tegutsen.</a> on April 17, 2013 at 12:19 am</div> <p>[…] <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process -" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process -</a> blueprint […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-11628" class="pingback t23 c-y2013 c-m05 c-d31 c-h18"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.brianhallphotography.net/blog/daily-reel-15/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Daily Reel #15. » Brian Hall Photography Blog</a> on May 31, 2013 at 5:46 pm</div> <p>[…] For today’s post I found an old Cynotype I did in College. For those of you who don’t know what a cyanotype is, it is an old printing process discovered in the late 1800′s. It was originally used more by the engineering world but, Anna Atkins brought it to the photography world. It’s a pretty simple process. You can by kits online, mix the chemicals, coat pretty much ANY absorbent service with the light sensitive solution, use a strong light source (we used the sun), rinse and dry. In school we printed mostly on pure cotton paper, but we mixed it up too with printing on things like a T-Shirt and a wooden bed tray for breakfast in bed. It was a ton of fun and you should try it out. Check out how to do it here: http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-13682" class="pingback t24 c-y2013 c-m08 c-d07 c-h20 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://coloraberration.com/?p=11' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Color Aberration » Cyanotypes: not as easy as 1-2-3</a> on August 7, 2013 at 7:37 pm</div> <p>[…] negatives. This is a very much debated issue. Most web sources will tell you to choose something reddish or yellowish while many people just use black. In my experience black will give very vivid contrast […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-17231" class="pingback t25 c-y2013 c-m08 c-d18 c-h18"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://annapatton.me/2013/08/18/making-magic/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Making magic |</a> on August 18, 2013 at 5:53 pm</div> <p>[…] cold water, and hang it out to dry. (For a more detailed explanation of how the process works, read this.) You create a unique piece – you never know exactly how it will turn out; timing, daylight […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-21792" class="pingback t26 c-y2013 c-m09 c-d04 c-h17 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://linadawson.wordpress.com/2013/09/04/anna-atkins/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Anna Atkins | SAMOUKOVA</a> on September 4, 2013 at 4:12 pm</div> <p>[…] <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process</a> […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-22460" class="pingback t27 c-y2013 c-m10 c-d11 c-h14"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://sbrookesprintmaker.wordpress.com/2013/10/11/cyanotype-prints/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Cyanotype Prints | S Brookes Printmaker</a> on October 11, 2013 at 1:00 pm</div> <p>[…] In the spring, I was kindly given the chemical required to make cyanotype prints by the Norfolk artist, Andrew Ruffhead (www.fish-and-ships.com). In a dark room, you mix the chemicals with water and then paint onto some quality paper-very simply put! On a sunny day, you use a ‘negative’ that you have created to ‘expose’ the paper to the light to create beautiful images in a strong blue colour. There are websites that give you the detail (<a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com</a>) […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-24702" class="pingback t28 c-y2014 c-m03 c-d10 c-h14 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://alexwoodhousephoto.wordpress.com/2014/03/10/cyanotypes/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Cyanotypes | Alex Woodhouse Photography</a> on March 10, 2014 at 1:31 pm</div> <p>[…] been working on some cyanotypes this past week. Being in the darkroom and playing around with different papers and fabric has been […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-25213" class="pingback t29 c-y2014 c-m04 c-d02 c-h00"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://kararasmanis.wordpress.com/2014/04/01/what-did-bill-choose/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>What did Bill choose? | Kara Rasmanis</a> on April 1, 2014 at 11:50 pm</div> <p>[…] I entered a gallery with the customary Henson black painted walls (not ‘black’ but a special almost black concoction designed for the space based on the carpet colour so it was complimentary) with almost all the works being black and white. I felt a huge sigh of relief as I spied some wonderful Norman Lindsays and a beautiful tiny cyanotype. […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-25276" class="pingback t30 c-y2014 c-m04 c-d08 c-h05 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://blogs.tas.edu.tw/14108456/2014/04/08/exploring-cyanotype/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Exploring Cyanotype | Stanley C.</a> on April 8, 2014 at 4:07 am</div> <p>[…] Citation: http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-40576" class="pingback t31 c-y2014 c-m05 c-d10 c-h00"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://karleyfoy.wordpress.com/2014/05/09/cyanotypes/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Cyanotypes | Karley Foy Photography</a> on May 9, 2014 at 11:14 pm</div> <p>[…] <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process</a> […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-123439" class="pingback t32 c-y2014 c-m08 c-d19 c-h12 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.documentaryphotoreview.com/photographers/interviews/podcast-ingrid-guyon-on-participatory-photography-techniques/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>PODCAST: Ingrid Guyon on Participatory Photography Techniques | Documentary Photography Review</a> on August 19, 2014 at 11:29 am</div> <p>[…] Cyanotype […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-126754" class="pingback t33 c-y2014 c-m08 c-d23 c-h17"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://pathetica.net/dayzero/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>day zero – pathetica</a> on August 23, 2014 at 4:51 pm</div> <p>[…] waking up to a whole campus without water. No showers, no coffee, and a very difficult time making cyanotypes … What’s more, it’s raining, so it feels like our whole Human Control of Water thing has been […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-135396" class="pingback t34 c-y2014 c-m09 c-d03 c-h15 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://dragoncafephotography.wordpress.com/2014/09/03/more-from-the-cyanotype-workshops/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>More from the Cyanotype Workshops | Dragon Café Photographers</a> on September 3, 2014 at 2:44 pm</div> <p>[…] you are interested in making some of your own, there are some great pages on the web here and […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-179299" class="pingback t35 c-y2014 c-m10 c-d31 c-h16"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://yoderr16-project.bus321.wlu.edu/2014/10/30/im-a-photography-teacher/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>I’m a photography teacher!</a> on October 31, 2014 at 3:20 pm</div> <p>[…] For a more in depth explanation of cyanotype photography click here. […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-213569" class="pingback t36 c-y2014 c-m12 c-d30 c-h17 alt"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://lizdrakemablog.wordpress.com/2014/12/30/creating-cyanotypes-in-class/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Creating cyanotypes – in class | lizdrakemablog</a> on December 30, 2014 at 4:32 pm</div> <p>[…] <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process</a> […]</p> </li> <li id="comment-214638" class="pingback t37 c-y2015 c-m01 c-d01 c-h21"> <div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://myvintagephoto.wordpress.com/2015/01/01/tecniche-antiche-la-cianotipia/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Tecniche antiche: la Cianotipia | My Vintage Photo</a> on January 1, 2015 at 8:59 pm</div> <p>[…] <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/cyanotype-classic-process</a> […]</p> </li> </ol> </div><!-- #trackbacks-list .comments --> <div id="respond"> <h3>Post a Comment</h3> <div class="formcontainer"> <form id="commentform" action="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/wp-comments-post.php" method="post"> <p id="comment-notes">Your email is <em>never</em> shared. 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