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<div id="post-1385" class="hentry p1 post publish author-admin category-wetplate tag-collodion tag-image-types tag-ken-watson tag-wet-plate tag-wet-plate-collodion-process y2010 m03 d02 h12">
<h1 class="entry-title">The wetplate collodion process</h1>
<div class="entry-content">
<p class="byline">Writer and Photographer / Ken Watson</p>
<h5>Ken Watson, a serious “wet head” shares his joy and experience of making wet plate collodions.</h5>
<p><strong>Always be careful when handling chemicals. Read the <a href="/wp/processes/health-and-safety">health and safety</a> instructions.</strong></p>
<hr />
<p><img src="/artists/ken_watson/kw_winter_carriage-b.jpg" width="500" height="379" alt="wetplate collodion" class="floatright" /><strong>Note: Not for beginners!</strong></p>
<p>This description of the wet plate process is the procedure to make a wet plate image <strong>ASSUMING that one has collected the special equipment to do the process AND that one has gathered and mixed the chemistry necessary to the process</strong>. This is not anything like going to the local photo store and buying packaged chemistry that one mixes with water. But it is not beyond most folks who are careful and understand how to accurately weigh and measure small amounts.</p>
<p>I was assisted in learning the wet plate process from a publication and support via email from Mark Osterman. I also have a now good friend Eric Lowe who was also learning the process at the same time. We collaborated together and assisted each other to where we became successful (wet heads).</p>
<p class="byline">Image right: Winter carriage: done as an experiment that arose out of discussions of "could wet plate work in the winter and at cold temps". I think snow on the ground answered that one.</p>
<h3>The process</h3>
<p>This process is used to make different image types: <strong>The Ambrotype, the Tintype (also known as the Ferrotype), and a negative</strong>. In fact while the first three appear to be auto-positive images they are in fact thin negatives that via the wet plate process are able to be viewed as positives.</p>
<p>There are <strong>four basic sets of chemistry</strong>. The collodion (wet plate collodion process ), the Silver Bath, the Developer, and the Fixer. I will place a description of these later.</p>
<p><strong>To start one needs either very clean glass, a prepared tintype sheet or black anodized aluminum plate</strong> the correct size that will fit into a plate holder.</p>
<p class="clearfix"><span class="bigbold">1</span><strong>Pour the Collodion on</strong><br />
For small plate sizes (5 X 7 & down) the plate can be grasped at the lower left corner between the thumb and first finger. The collodion is poured on and then off in one smooth motion to get an even coating of the plate. There are two techniques. The first is to pour a puddle in the very center of the plate and then rock the plate to move the collodion to each corner, the second is to start pouring in the upper right corner, flow the collodion down and to the left to cover the upper left and left side of the plate and finish by flowing the bottom right corner where excess collodion is poured off. If this pouring is not done in one smooth even flow there is a great possibility that there will be ridges in your image.</p>
<p class="clearfix"><span class="bigbold">2</span><strong>Place in silver bath</strong><br />
Once poured and the excess collodion is drained off of a plate and it is then placed into a silver bath. This is a solution of silver nitrate and distilled water. I have seen simple trays used but to do so one needs to remain in a completely darkroom while the plate sensitizes…about two minutes. I use a vertical bath that is light tight so that I can leave my portable darkroom (something all wet plate photographers need in the field).</p>
<p class="clearfix"><span class="bigbold">3</span><strong>Place in plate holder</strong><br />
After the two minutes the plate is removed, excess silver nitrate solution that adheres to the back of the plate is wiped off by a paper towel. The sensitized plate is placed into the plate holder with the collodion side facing the lens…You did remember to make sure it is truly dark in your portable darkroom before removing the plate out of the bath and into the plate holder?</p>
<p class="clearfix"><span class="bigbold">4</span><strong>Make exposure</strong><br />
One then loads the holder onto the camera, draws the dark slide, makes the exposure and closes the dark slide. The exposure that seems to work well with new collodion is F11 or F16 at three seconds. Did I mention that the speed of the collodion changes over time? How about that you have no control over temperature? Your chemistry could be anywhere between 40 to 90 degrees F and you just have to make it work correctly. Can you do this with modern materials?</p>
<p>Depending on the temperature, one has from two to ten minutes to make the exposure and start development. Because once the collodion dries out on your plate, that area will not develop.</p>
<p class="clearfix"><span class="bigbold">5</span><strong>The developer</strong><br />
My friend John pointed out that the developer smells like apple vinegar with a bunch of nails thrown in. In fact this is about what it is. Contrary to modern photography, we want to just use the minimum amount of developer. About 14 ml for a 5 X 7. Once you have the plate out of the holder ( in the Dark room again) the correct technique is to smoothly and rapidly pour your developer onto and across the plate to completely cover it in one motion. Any place the developer stops; it will deposit a silver line that will be a streak in your image. Once the plate is covered by developer (in less that three seconds) start counting seconds in your head while watching and slowly rocking the plate. The intent is to count to 15 and to keep the developer moving. By 10 you should see a definite image. At 15 pour regular stream water over the plate. If the stream is kind of brown then be sure to get some water and let it stand overnight taking the clear stuff off the top. The water stops the development.</p>
<p class="clearfix"><span class="bigbold">6</span><strong>Fixing</strong><br />
There are two fixing methods. One is to use Hypo or Sodium thiosulfate, the other is to use potassium cyanided. The cyanide has the added opportunity of gassing ones self if you do not completely get all the developer off the plate (cyanide gas is released by the acid). Or you could just poison yourself by having some of this material on your fingers and decide you need a sandwich. I use Hypo. The are others who use Cyanide for the image "quality". This is a hobby for me. I do not need to risk anyone’s health close to me for a hobby.</p>
<p>Fixing takes as long as it takes. In most cases the rule of thumb is to watch until the image clears. The milky Iodides will be removed. Then fix for another similar length of time to completely remove the "halogens".</p>
<p>As with all hypo fixed materials, the more water the better for rinsing.</p>
<p>Once rinsed the plates are set out to dry. Some people coat their plates with a varnish, others do not. This is poured on just as the collodion was except the varnish and plate need to be at 110 degrees F for things to work correctly. Some people also paint the collodion on ambrotypes black to protect it and to give the classical black background that these images require to become positives.</p>
<h2><img src="/artists/ken_watson/kw_poudera-b.jpg" width="455" height="500" alt="" class="floatright" />Chemistry</h2>
<p>Collodion is a mixture of Ethyl Ether, Ethyl Alcohol, nitrocellulose and trace amounts of an iodide and bromide. Almost any water-soluble version of these will work. Those combined with heavier elements allow the collodion to last longer before going bad. This is months to a year. The lightest elements in combination may only be good for a month. You will need non-flexible collodion, additional Ether and Alcohol to dilute the collodion. Ether is explosive when allowed to pool / leak out of its container. It will also put you to sleep. Mix this stuff outside. I use everclear for the alcohol.</p>
<p class="byline">Image right: Poudera: one of Ken’s first 8 X 10’s, with the wind blowing so hard it about blew his camera and portable darkroom over. When he set up all was calm. Taken at about 7000 ft. The "haze" comes from the fact that a lot of UV is present at altitude and sensitized collodion is very sensitive to it. Unfortunately the lens does not focus UV on the same plane as visible light. Of course using a lens from the late 1800’s for these images might be considered an added handicap.</p>
<h4> Silver bath</h4>
<p>Silver nitrate crystals and distilled water. Silver nitrate will turn your skin black as well as any part of your eye it comes into contact with. Be careful or become blind.</p>
<h4> Developer</h4>
<p>This is usually Ferrous sulfate, acetic acid and water. I have also added Pyro from time to time.</p>
<p>Fixer we have talked about.</p>
<p>I have not included detailed chemistry amounts or the places to by this material. If you have further interests there are whole forums devoted to wet plate<span class="ap_icon">.</span></p>
<hr />
<h2><a name="comments">Reader’s comments on the process</a></h2>
<p><strong>Cyanide & Hypo fixing</strong><br />
Ken is quite correct, you don’t need to use cyanide for fixing positive images, ambrotypes and ferrotypes, produced by the wet plate process. I am a wet plate worker here in England and I use a strong ammonium thiosulphate solution for fixing images. A ferrotype will clear in fifteen seconds.</p>
<p class="byline">– comment by Sean MacKenna</p>
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<h3><span>12</span> Comments</h3>
<ol>
<li id="comment-4" class="comment c0 c-y2010 c-m03 c-d03 c-h17 alt">
<div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/758ad33d5eed5fa7f5235748730c608a?s=32&d=mm&r=g' srcset='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/758ad33d5eed5fa7f5235748730c608a?s=64&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://www.luminous-lint.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>Alan Griffiths</a></span></div>
<div class="comment-meta">Posted March 3, 2010 at 4:37 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-4" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div>
<p>Fascinating account. I’d be interested in any photographs of ‘Dark tents’ and ‘Portable darkrooms’ in use for an exhibition I’m bringing together for Luminous-Lint. Many thanks, Alan</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-5" class="comment c1 c-y2010 c-m03 c-d03 c-h18">
<div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://2.gravatar.com/avatar/5750574ab94c45c9097ada6d0cd2c7ef?s=32&d=mm&r=g' srcset='http://2.gravatar.com/avatar/5750574ab94c45c9097ada6d0cd2c7ef?s=64&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Ashley</span></div>
<div class="comment-meta">Posted March 3, 2010 at 5:46 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-5" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div>
<p>Nice introduction to the process. I personally use potassium cyanide as a fixer because I like the look and the fact that I do almost everything out in the field where I often have limited supplies of water. I take a lot of precautions. Both chemicals work though. No one should miss out on the fun because they are afraid of cyanide.</p>
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<li id="comment-2002" class="comment c2 c-y2011 c-m03 c-d15 c-h22 alt">
<div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/0a1e1095741eeaa27dee3781a3f583b3?s=32&d=mm&r=g' srcset='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/0a1e1095741eeaa27dee3781a3f583b3?s=64&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">william quaintance</span></div>
<div class="comment-meta">Posted March 15, 2011 at 9:47 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2002" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div>
<p>i have read about a non ether collodion process perhahs in book title “alternative photographic process” but cannot find an account of it now.</p>
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<li id="comment-2003" class="comment c3 c-y2011 c-m03 c-d15 c-h22">
<div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/0a1e1095741eeaa27dee3781a3f583b3?s=32&d=mm&r=g' srcset='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/0a1e1095741eeaa27dee3781a3f583b3?s=64&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">william quaintance</span></div>
<div class="comment-meta">Posted March 15, 2011 at 9:51 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2003" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div>
<p>i have an early color photo process with collodion although i am not a photographer but a painter. any interested persons may contact me, i am in minneapolis minnesota</p>
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<li id="comment-2005" class="comment c4 byuser comment-author-admin bypostauthor c-y2011 c-m03 c-d16 c-h09 alt">
<div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=32&d=mm&r=g' srcset='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/47ffe7f85969d69f05eb8ab9c36ea376?s=64&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">admin</span></div>
<div class="comment-meta">Posted March 16, 2011 at 8:01 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-2005" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div>
<p>@William<br />
Do you mean you have a description of the process? If so, let us take a look at it.<br />
Kind regards,<br />
Malin</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-3489" class="comment c5 c-y2012 c-m02 c-d27 c-h06">
<div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/0cbc3112d2b5c68ff4906febcf1bf7c6?s=32&d=mm&r=g' srcset='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/0cbc3112d2b5c68ff4906febcf1bf7c6?s=64&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Erin Heim</span></div>
<div class="comment-meta">Posted February 27, 2012 at 5:51 am <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-3489" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div>
<p>@ Malin (Admin) the book is called “New Dimensions in Photo Processes” by Laura Blacklow. You coat the tin with a matte paint spray then melt liquid emulsion and coat it on a warm sheet of aluminum and let it dry (unlike collodion). Then you expose it and develop it in a mixture of paper developer and exhausted fixer. </p>
<p>Has anyone ever tried it? The images in the book are stunning.</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-3502" class="comment c6 c-y2012 c-m02 c-d29 c-h14 alt">
<div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/c8eaf982ac50b38ae815ee8ca0f15942?s=32&d=mm&r=g' srcset='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/c8eaf982ac50b38ae815ee8ca0f15942?s=64&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://www.lblacklow.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>Laura Blacklow</a></span></div>
<div class="comment-meta">Posted February 29, 2012 at 1:58 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-3502" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div>
<p>I am the author of New Dimensions in Photo Processes, and I would like to respond to post #6 by Erin.<br />
The method of using Liquid Light/Rockland emulsion is relatively simple and really not a big threat to your health or the environment. The results can be stunning, as the examples in my book attest, but they are slightly different in actual appearance to wet plate.<br />
If you want to try it before you invest a lot of money, Rockland makes a tintype kit that includes the emulsion with extra silver (“L.L.plus”) and 4 small plates. You use it in the darkroom with normal black and white chemistry. Information on contacting the company is in the back of my book.<br />
Hope this helps.</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-3610" class="comment c7 c-y2012 c-m03 c-d25 c-h14">
<div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/04f1aba40751ab1f8616f1d08cdab139?s=32&d=mm&r=g' srcset='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/04f1aba40751ab1f8616f1d08cdab139?s=64&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Sumera</span></div>
<div class="comment-meta">Posted March 25, 2012 at 1:41 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-3610" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div>
<p>Hello I am a current student studying Art and Design and i’ve worked with dark room techniques before but this process I came across after visiting the Walter Hugo exhibition in London and I needed this wet plate technique for my final major project for university, Im a total beginner for this process and Im looking to buy the chemicals to start testing out now, i’ve got 8 weeks to finish my project and by then hopefully i’d be decent enough in producing negetives.</p>
<p>Thanks<br />
Sumera</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-3721" class="comment c8 c-y2012 c-m05 c-d10 c-h21 alt">
<div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/1a277de274d6bb57023e4d2558986503?s=32&d=mm&r=g' srcset='http://1.gravatar.com/avatar/1a277de274d6bb57023e4d2558986503?s=64&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n"><a href='http://www.nanhawthorne.com' rel='external nofollow' class='url url'>Nan Hawthorne</a></span></div>
<div class="comment-meta">Posted May 10, 2012 at 8:56 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-3721" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div>
<p>I wonder if someone can help me with something I need to find out for a historical novel I am writing. If a person dropped a Wet Plates / Collodion plate into a fireplace, of course the glass would break, but what would the reaction of the collodion, the silver nitrate and the black varnish be? This particular plate is only a couple years old in the novel. My character chooses to destroy it, but i want to describe what happens. hopefully he doesn’t kill himself with the fumes. This is new Orleans in 1861.</p>
<p>If you can email me as well as posting here, I would be grateful.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Nan Hawthorne<br />
<a href="mailto:hawthorne@nanhawthorne.com">hawthorne@nanhawthorne.com</a></p>
</li>
<li id="comment-3856" class="comment c9 c-y2012 c-m06 c-d26 c-h13">
<div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/9bd6dee31ac7478f1b68001358139ff2?s=32&d=mm&r=g' srcset='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/9bd6dee31ac7478f1b68001358139ff2?s=64&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">Chinar</span></div>
<div class="comment-meta">Posted June 26, 2012 at 12:27 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-3856" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div>
<p>Hi,</p>
<p>I am a photography student. Can you please tell me how exactly can I make collodion? The steps mentioned here are not clear in terms of measurement, right methods of mixing chemistry. </p>
<p>thank you.</p>
<p>Chinar</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-14473" class="comment c10 c-y2013 c-m08 c-d10 c-h00 alt">
<div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://2.gravatar.com/avatar/850bcd0e0cb8a657eb308240796670b5?s=32&d=mm&r=g' srcset='http://2.gravatar.com/avatar/850bcd0e0cb8a657eb308240796670b5?s=64&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">jean</span></div>
<div class="comment-meta">Posted August 9, 2013 at 11:28 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-14473" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div>
<p>I wonder if anyone can help I have a collection of what I think are ambrotypes would anyone be able to point me in direction of an apraiser as would consider seeking these</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-24047" class="comment c11 c-y2014 c-m01 c-d14 c-h21">
<div class="comment-author vcard"><img alt='' src='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/0a1e1095741eeaa27dee3781a3f583b3?s=32&d=mm&r=g' srcset='http://0.gravatar.com/avatar/0a1e1095741eeaa27dee3781a3f583b3?s=64&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='photo avatar avatar-32 photo' height='32' width='32' /> <span class="fn n">bill quaintance</span></div>
<div class="comment-meta">Posted January 14, 2014 at 8:47 pm <span class="meta-sep">|</span> <a href="#comment-24047" title="Permalink to this comment">Permalink</a></div>
<p>ken watson, i have a related process which i would like to discuss. also henry p bosse the cyanotyp photographer is my great uncle. i am in minneapolis 4008 39 avenue south 55406 612 871 4062</p>
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<h3><span>17</span> Trackbacks</h3>
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<li id="comment-737" class="pingback t0 c-y2010 c-m08 c-d02 c-h20 alt">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://synesthesiagarden.com/2010/08/02/allan-barnes-ulorin-vex/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Synesthesia Garden - a weird art + style blog | » Blog Archive » Allan Barnes + Ulorin Vex</a> on August 2, 2010 at 7:07 pm</div>
<p>[…] makes tintypes, a photographic process from the late 19th century. These are some images via the wet-plate collodion process with my favorite model, the gorgeous Ulorin Vex, as the […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-1935" class="pingback t1 c-y2011 c-m02 c-d25 c-h12">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.abcartgallery.com/archives/1362' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Creator Q&A: Homeland’s Robyn Hasty | ABC Art Gallery</a> on February 25, 2011 at 11:35 am</div>
<p>[…] camera — it’s from 1896! She then develops the images using an equally ancient method called wet-plate collodion processing, resulting in one-of-a-kind photo positives and stunning, metallic prints. We were curious to know […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-2313" class="pingback t2 c-y2011 c-m07 c-d18 c-h18 alt">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://workerparasite.com/?p=48' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>City of Shadows: Sydney Police Photographs, 1912–1948 | WORKER/PARASITE</a> on July 18, 2011 at 5:20 pm</div>
<p>[…] there was a flood in some building in Sydney that was inadvertently warehousing thousands of glass plate negatives, and they were rediscovered, sorted through and eventually published as a […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-2635" class="pingback t3 c-y2011 c-m10 c-d29 c-h01">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://publish.my/2011/10/28/visions-of-alice-the-little-girl-at-the-heart-of-wonderland/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Visions of Alice: the little girl at the heart of Wonderland | PUBLISH.MY Books, DVD, Publications</a> on October 29, 2011 at 12:39 am</div>
<p>[…] structures of the new magic media: his skill as a photographer, using the extremely tricky wet collodion process, gave him the coordinates of space-time in Alice’s Wonderland: she grows big and small as in […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-2641" class="pingback t4 c-y2011 c-m10 c-d29 c-h13 alt">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://books.isrconn.com/?p=5461' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Books » Archive » Visions of Alice</a> on October 29, 2011 at 12:49 pm</div>
<p>[…] structures of the new magic media: his skill as a photographer, using the extremely tricky wet collodion process, gave him the coordinates of space-time in Alice’s Wonderland: she grows big and small as in […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-3861" class="pingback t5 c-y2012 c-m06 c-d27 c-h17">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://theartjunkie.wordpress.com/2012/06/27/tintypes-surfers-salt-abandoned-places/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Tintype Photography: Surfers & Abandoned Places « Global Art Junkie</a> on June 27, 2012 at 4:07 pm</div>
<p>[…] uses a wet-plate collodion process, introduced in the […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-5052" class="pingback t6 c-y2012 c-m10 c-d22 c-h18 alt">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://wmerkel.com/?p=908' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>» Silver & Light W_Merkel</a> on October 22, 2012 at 5:34 pm</div>
<p>[…] photos. If you want to know more about it or how to do it, alternativephotography.com has a great writeup by Ken Watson on how to make your own wt plates. This is not for […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-9801" class="pingback t7 c-y2013 c-m01 c-d16 c-h07">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.quora.com/Photography/Where-can-I-find-instruction-for-wet-plate-photography-process#ans1959003' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Photography: Where can I find instruction for wet plate photography process? - Quora</a> on January 16, 2013 at 6:38 am</div>
<p>[…] Anon Userhttp://www.alternativephotograph…And a video here: Embed QuoteComment Loading… • Just now Somanath Mehanath, […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-10358" class="pingback t8 c-y2013 c-m03 c-d07 c-h16 alt">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://blog.aptitudephotography.com/?p=25' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Who is Ian Ruther? And What is Wet Plate Printing? | Aptitude Photography</a> on March 7, 2013 at 3:53 pm</div>
<p>[…] The process involves a lot of chemicals, the ability to work very quickly, and a strong will to master the trying craft. For anyone interested in the whole process step by step check out Alternative Photography’s article. […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-10440" class="pingback t9 c-y2013 c-m03 c-d13 c-h15">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://aptitudephotography.com/?p=25' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Who is Ian Ruhter? And What is Wet Plate Printing? | Aptitude Photography</a> on March 13, 2013 at 2:53 pm</div>
<p>[…] The process involves a lot of chemicals, the ability to work very quickly, and a strong will to master the trying craft. For anyone interested in the whole process step by step check out Alternative Photography’s article. […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-11432" class="pingback t10 c-y2013 c-m05 c-d23 c-h18 alt">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://halawrenz.wordpress.com/2012/10/15/using-photoshop-to-reinvent-traditional-photo-processes/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Using Photoshop to reinvent traditional photo processes | Room 118</a> on May 23, 2013 at 5:27 pm</div>
<p>[…] Wet plate collidion process was developed in the 1850s and all but replaced earlier daguerreotype. This process was replaced by current dark room techniques and the chemicals used, often harmful were abandoned. However, in the Instragram-filter craze of today, the look of this process is being revisited by several artists. […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-11533" class="pingback t11 c-y2013 c-m05 c-d28 c-h08">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://artacquired.com/barry-schmetter/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Barry Schmetter » artacquired.com</a> on May 28, 2013 at 7:00 am</div>
<p>[…] articles out there with more details on the process so I won’t rewrite them. Find some details here and here. Wet plate chemistry is complex and outside of the usual repertoire of the average […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-22260" class="pingback t12 c-y2013 c-m09 c-d24 c-h07 alt">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.metaphorimages.com/wordpress/?p=5372' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Metaphor Online » Ed Drew’s Afghanistan</a> on September 24, 2013 at 6:37 am</div>
<p>[…] shot using Drew’s 5×4 wet-plate camera. Photographs: Ed DrewDrew used the same method and chemicals as were used in the civil war. Each plate was coated in a sticky, amber-coloured collodion solution […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-23016" class="pingback t13 c-y2013 c-m11 c-d06 c-h00">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://blog.ponoko.com/2013/11/05/photographer-creates-camera-accessories-for-150-yr-old-photo-technique/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Photographer Creates Camera Accessories for 150 yr old Photo Technique « Ponoko – Blog</a> on November 5, 2013 at 11:08 pm</div>
<p>[…] If you’re interested in learning more about the collodion technique, Jody has provided a link to an excellent step-by-step guide of the collodion process. […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-24124" class="pingback t14 c-y2014 c-m01 c-d21 c-h15 alt">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://notquiteinfocus.wordpress.com/2014/01/21/a-brief-history-of-photography-part-4-wet-plate-collodian/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>A Brief History of Photography: Part 4 – Wet Plate Collodian | Not Quite in Focus</a> on January 21, 2014 at 2:21 pm</div>
<p>[…] Ken Watson, Alternative Photography, “The wet plate collodian process,” <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/wetplate/the-wetplate-collodion-process" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/wetplate/the-wetplate-collodion-process</a> […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-24359" class="pingback t15 c-y2014 c-m02 c-d12 c-h19">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://www.mattharquail.co.uk/blog/?p=242' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>Compur » Photographer Matt Harquail</a> on February 12, 2014 at 6:40 pm</div>
<p>[…] repaired if need be. At this point the thought of this camera conjured up ideas of dabbling in the wet plate process which creates stunning one of a kind images on metal or glass […]</p>
</li>
<li id="comment-212177" class="pingback t16 c-y2014 c-m12 c-d28 c-h00 alt">
<div class="comment-author">By <a href='http://cluat.com/question/how-can-i-learn-the-collodion-process/' rel='external nofollow' class='url'>how can I learn the collodion process | CL-UAT</a> on December 27, 2014 at 11:45 pm</div>
<p>[…] Alternative Photography, which is on Google’s first page, is still one of the best resources I know of for alt-process photography, so I’ll recommend it anyway: <a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/wetplate/the-wetplate-collodion-process" rel="nofollow">http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/wetplate/the-wetplate-collodion-process</a> […]</p>
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<h3 class="widgettitle">Articles on the same subject</h3><p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/cameras-film/build-large-format-camera-for-wet-collodion-work" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to Against all good advice: how to build a large format camera for wet collodion work at home">Against all good advice: how to build a large format camera for wet collodion work at home</a></p>
<p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/wetplate/ambrotypes-a-beginners-view" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to Ambrotypes – a beginner’s view">Ambrotypes – a beginner’s view</a></p>
<p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/history/history-colloidon-process" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to History of the colloidon process">History of the colloidon process</a></p>
<p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/wetplate/say-goodbye-to-cyanide-a-less-toxic-approach-to-fixing-wet-collodion-plates" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to Say goodbye to cyanide: a less toxic approach to fixing wet collodion plates">Say goodbye to cyanide: a less toxic approach to fixing wet collodion plates</a></p>
<p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/wetplate/the-classic-tintype-process" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to The classic tintype process">The classic tintype process</a></p>
<p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/liquid-emulsion/the-modern-tintype-process" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to The modern tintype process">The modern tintype process</a></p>
<p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/cameras-film/wet-plate-collodion-with-a-polaroid-camera" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to Wet plate collodion with a Polaroid camera">Wet plate collodion with a Polaroid camera</a></p>
<p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/wetplate/wet-plate-collodion-process-ambrotypes" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to Wet-Plate Collodion Process – Ambrotypes">Wet-Plate Collodion Process – Ambrotypes</a></p>
<h3 class="widgettitle">Books and further reading</h3><p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/alt-proc/art-and-artists-edition-1" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to Alternative Photography: Art and Artists, Edition I">Alternative Photography: Art and Artists, Edition I</a></p>
<p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/alt-proc/diffusion-magazine-1" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to Diffusion magazine – unconventional photography, volume I, 2009">Diffusion magazine – unconventional photography, volume I, 2009</a></p>
<p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/cameras-film/making-the-sliding-box-camera" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to Making the Sliding Box Camera">Making the Sliding Box Camera</a></p>
<p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/cameras-film/making-the-traditional-wet-plate-camera" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to Making the Traditional Wet Plate Camera">Making the Traditional Wet Plate Camera</a></p>
<p style="padding:0px 8px 0px 16px"><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/wetplate/wet-collodion-plate" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to The Wet Collodion Plate">The Wet Collodion Plate</a></p>
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